Recently, I had the chance to fulfil one of my bucket-list dreams: a trip to Greece.
OK, not a boy anymore. At least, not as per ID proofs. But the trip was real. And the boy inside was very much present.
Our itinerary was a mix of mainland Greece (Athens), the Peloponnese (Olympia), Delphi, and the Cycladic islands of Naxos and Santorini. What started as an idea for a five-day trip to Athens and Olympia eventually turned into a ten-day affair. I guess we chose the option of seeing the mainland, some hilly regions, and a couple of islands instead of focusing solely on an Athens-centric trip.
Many of us have had the good fortune of growing up with stories from Indian epics such as the Mahabharata and Ramayana. Some of us were also fortunate enough to encounter the Greek epics—the Iliad and the Odyssey—along with many other stories from Greek mythology. It had always been a dream of mine to visit Athens, Olympia, Delphi, Crete, and other places associated with the interactions of gods and mortals in those old tales.
We landed in Athens, our transit hub for the next week and a half. Athens is probably the oldest city I have ever visited—perhaps even older than Madurai.
Our hotel was conveniently located near the city center. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the Acropolis was a mere twenty-minute walk away. In general, Athens felt very pedestrian-friendly.
We decided to take a walk to one of the local markets while searching for a good vegetarian restaurant. Our route took us through some of the city's popular tourist neighborhoods. Monastiraki was one such area, with its flea market and small shops. There were plenty of street-food joints and taverns. At one point, I could even hear what sounded like Indian voices bargaining in one of the souvenir shops! We visited the market both during the day and in the evening. Busy, lively place, and so full of character.
Our walk also took us past Athens City Hall. In the vicinity were the Stock Exchange and the Bank of Greece, all housed in lovely buildings with impressive architecture!
From Monastiraki Square, you can spot the Acropolis, the Roman Agora from Julius and Augustus Caesar times, and Hadrian's Library—all layered together in one compact area. The Roman Agora was the old Roman marketplace, located close to the Ancient Agora, where Socrates and other philosophers once debated. Nearby stood the Fethiye Mosque from the Ottoman period. It was fascinating to see how such a small area had witnessed so many influences and transformations over the centuries.
Plaka, part of the old town, was another delightful neighborhood with cobblestone streets and taverns. We spent quite a bit of time wandering around, window-shopping and soaking in the atmosphere. Psirri Square, on the other hand, felt more modern, with bars, live music, and bustling cafés. What initially looked like graffiti turned out to be some impressive street art. This area is also home to the Varvakios Central Market, although unfortunately it wasn't fully open when we passed through.
It was remarkable to see the old and the new existing side by side within a relatively small area. Exploring the city on foot was a lot of fun.
Following the classical era, Greece came under Roman and later Ottoman rule for several centuries. The influence of both civilizations is visible throughout the country. Many Greek temples were converted into churches during the Christian Roman and Byzantine periods. The Parthenon originally a temple for Athena, itself apparently served as a church before later becoming a mosque under Ottoman rule, before being damaged during a Venetian siege of Athens. In several regions of Greece, Ottoman and Venetian influences overlap, particularly in places such as Crete, Santorini, Naxos, parts of the Peloponnese, and the Ionian Islands.
As one might expect in an ancient city like Athens, numerous relics, cemeteries, and archaeological remains have been uncovered during modern construction projects. European archaeologists played a major role in excavating many sites during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and today Greek archaeologists continue that work. I have always marveled at how Europe has managed to preserve and showcase so much of its history through archaeology and its architecture, and this trip reinforced that feeling even further.
Athens also boasts its fair share of museums and neoclassical architecture. It is remarkable how successfully the city blends the modern world with its historical heritage. There are relatively few high-rise buildings, partly to preserve views of the Acropolis and partly because the region is prone to earthquakes.
We took a bus tour around the city and passed several beautiful landmarks, including the Hellenic Parliament in Syntagma Square and a number of foreign embassies. We were fortunate enough to witness a changing-of-the-guard ceremony, with the guards dressed in their traditional uniforms. Other buildings that caught my attention were the famous Athens Trilogy—the Academy of Athens, the University of Athens, and the National Library. The city also has numerous squares, many with fountains that looked particularly attractive after dark, when lit.
Another notable site was the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Although only a handful of columns remain today, the scale of the structure gives some indication of how magnificent it must once have been.
The visit to the Acropolis and its museum was terrific. Interestingly, the Acropolis is not the highest point in Athens—that distinction belongs to Mount Lycabettus, crowned by the Church of St. George and offering spectacular views of the city.
Even the walk up to the Acropolis was memorable. Near the base stands the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a theatre built nearly two thousand years ago. In Greco-Roman times, an odeon was a venue for musical performances and other cultural events. Only later did I make the connection with the old Odeon theatre in Madras. Duh!
The Acropolis itself contains the Propylaea, the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, and the Erechtheion with its famous Caryatids—columns sculpted in the form of women. According to our guide, the site has been destroyed and rebuilt more than once over the centuries. Persians, Venetians, and others all left their mark on its history. Although much of it survives as ruins undergoing restoration, it is easy to imagine how spectacular the Acropolis must have looked in its prime. The sheer scale of the columns and marble structures is just awe-inspiring!
The museum is equally impressive. Many damaged statues and friezes have been painstakingly restored, reflecting Greece's commitment to preserving its heritage. The effort involved is truly remarkable. This also reminded me about the efforts that I had seen in Cambodia and Angkor Wat.
Our Athens visit was followed by a journey to Olympia and Delphi via the coastal route. The drive offered magnificent sea views and beautiful mountain scenery. Along the way we passed the Corinth Canal, a narrow waterway cutting through the Isthmus of Corinth and linking the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf.
One sight that particularly stood out was the Theatre of Epidaurus, an ancient amphitheatre renowned for its acoustics. It can seat well over ten thousand people and is still used for performances on special occasions. Apparently, even a whisper on stage can be heard clearly from the upper tiers.
Next came the Tomb of Agamemnon, also known as the Treasury of Atreus. Regardless of who was actually buried there, the structure is jaw-dropping. Agamemnon, according to legend, led the Greek forces during the Trojan War and was the brother of Menelaus, whose wife Helen's abduction sparked the conflict. Nearby Mycenae was one of the major centers of the Mycenaean civilization, which flourished more than three thousand years ago. According to legend, this was the same Mycenae founded by Perseus, of Medusa fame. Yet another instance of mythology and history blending seamlessly into one another!
The highlight, however, was Olympia—the birthplace of the Olympic Games. The original Olympics, much like today's, celebrated athletic excellence and were held in honor of Zeus. The site encompasses a vast area with a stadium, training grounds, athlete accommodations, temples, and altars. The games were considered sacred.
One fascinating detail I learned was that the stadion—the footrace run over approximately 192 metres—gave us the modern word "stadium." The athletes' entrance tunnel still survives. Imagine how it must have been for those athletes entering the competition area through that very tunnel!
Our guide told us that the stadium could hold around forty thousand spectators. The remains of the Temple of Zeus and the Temple of Hera were among the major highlights. There were also female athletic competitions held in honor of Hera. The colossal Statue of Zeus, once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, no longer survives. Made of ivory and gold, it must have been an extraordinary sight. Its creator, Phidias, was also involved in sculptural work associated with the Parthenon and the famous statue of Athena. Quite a résumé!
The drive from Olympia to Delphi took us through winding mountain roads. Appropriate, perhaps, since Delphi was the home of the famous Oracle who was believed to communicate with the gods. And of course, Apollo the God of Light, Music and all the good stuff.
The archaeological site contains several treasuries—small buildings where Greek city-states stored offerings dedicated to Apollo. There is also a theatre and a stadium perched high on the mountainside. The ancient Greeks certainly loved their sport and theatre! Reaching the stadium required a fair bit of uphill walking, but everyone in our group managed it.
The region below Delphi is famous for its vast olive groves, some of which contain trees that are centuries, and occasionally millennia, old. Our guide pointed out to an olive grove covering a 6 km stretch. The landscape is breathtaking.
Our next destinations werethe islands of Naxos and Santorini—two places that offered very different experiences.
Naxos charmed us with its beaches and spectacular mountain scenery. It felt very family-friendly. According to our guide, some of the older roads were originally designed around the width required for two donkeys carrying goods to pass each other. Funny! Less amusing for modern bus drivers. More than once, vehicles had to reverse to allow larger ones through.
Our hotel owner shared a little tidbit that the cast and crew of the Bollywood film Tiger Zinda Hai had stayed there. We had to look that one up!
One of our favorite experiences was sitting at a beachfront café, sipping a beer, enjoying a pizza, and watching the sunset. The island's traditional villages offered demonstrations of pottery-making and olive-oil production using older methods. Walking through the narrow alleys lined with taverns and cafés was delightful.
Many of these villages have fewer than a hundred residents. The only traffic jam, I imagine, would have involved three donkeys trying to cross at the same time :)
I was especially curious about Apeiranthos, a small mountain village that many people recommended. It turned out to have marble-paved streets—quite a sight. Another memorable stop was Apollonas, a tiny seaside village with only a few dozen residents and several charming cafés overlooking the water.
Santorini, meanwhile, is famous for its dramatic caldera views, blue waters, and volcanic landscape. It was also considerably more crowded and felt more expensive. Apparently, May-June is the start of the tourist season here.
We began our stay with a catamaran cruise. The scenery was spectacular, especially at sunset. Before a massive Bronze Age volcanic eruption, Santorini is believed to have been a more circular island. The eruption reshaped the landscape into the archipelago we see today. Some of the smaller islands within the caldera remain volcanic, with volcanic activity recorded even in modern times.
Our hotel was built into the cliffside and offered stunning views of the caldera. Reaching the room involved climbing nearly a hundred steps from the road above. The first day was tough, but we eventually adapted. Our porter, however, seemed like he was built like Hercules and made it look effortless!
Throughout the trip, Greek yoghurt, nuts, and cereal became a standard part of our breakfast. Lunches and dinners were surprisingly easy for vegetarians. There were plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, including fava, falafel, stuffed vine leaves, stuffed tomatoes and peppers, feta cheese, Kalamata olives, vegan moussaka, and imam bayildi.
The crown jewel, however, was briam—a delicious vegetable dish featuring eggplant, potatoes, olive oil, and herbs. Paired with mushrooms, roasted potatoes, and tzatziki, it was absolutely outstanding. Zucchini flowers and zucchini fritters were another pleasant discovery.
Yum!
The trip was memorable for all these reasons and more. We met several interesting people whom we hope to stay in touch with. The locals were consistently friendly and helpful. On one occasion at a dinner buffet, we asked whether certain dishes contained meat or eggs. Realizing that we were vegetarians, the hostess personally walked us through every dish, explaining exactly what each one contained. It was a small gesture, but one we greatly appreciated.
Overall, it was a wonderful experience.
I would love to return to Greece someday. There are still so many places left to explore—Crete, the Macedonian region, the Ionian Islands, and more. Maybe do another grand tour, or perhaps simply two weeks in Athens. Greece has more than enough history, culture, scenery, and food to keep anyone occupied for a very long time.
